Matfer carbon steel pan
The two pans I don't recommend are Matfer because of the ongoing recall situation and De Buyer Mineral B because of its limitations while cooking in the oven.
Cites safety (against)
I loved this pan so much that when I was testing it, before I was even done, I was like, "I want this pan," and I ordered one for myself, which I never do. So I've had mine for several years and I love it. I cook in it all the time.
We tested eight pans, and believe me, they were not all good. Some of them were real clunky, some really just never took to seasoning. They had sides that were too high, really off in balance. They just were not worth it. This one's our favorite. It's Matfer Bourgeat 11 7/8-inch Black Steel Frying Pan.
This pan passed France's national safety standards, but regional regulators found that the pan released excessive levels of arsenic, chromium, and iron when cooked in a highly acidic solution for 2 hours.
Cites safety (against)
But one brand recently made headlines for the wrong reasons. Matfer Black Carbon Steel pans were recalled in a region of France after testing showed high levels of arsenic, chromium, and iron when the pan was used to boil a highly acidic solution for 2 hours.
It also really took to seasoning well. It basically got seasoned and kept getting more and more non-stick. Some of the other pans seemed to really take a step back occasionally. You'd go through the whole seasoning process, cook something, and it would just come up. This really just kept building.
Cites seasoning durability
One other factor that was important with skillets, especially ones that you're gonna be searing in and that you might be baking in or cooking in, is rivets, the way the handle is attached to the pan. A lot of them had big, lumpy rivets, and they actually acquired a lot of schmutz, basically. This is nice and smooth.…
Cites build quality, ease of cleaning
There are several things that we really loved about this pan and one is you want some space to cook. This is 12 inches or 11 7/8 rim to rim and that's how they measure it. Then, the sides come down, and some of these tapered down like a wok to this little tiny space at the bottom. This one gives you a good broad…
Cites even heating, size and capacity, handle
Finally, the angle of the handle, this goes up a little bit. A lot of European pans do that. They tend to angle up. American pans, for whatever reason, tend to go flat. This is a French pan. It is angled up a little bit, but not so high that it was hard to get into the oven. When we were making tarte Tatin, you start…
This ruling may not be totally fair, but until it's fully resolved, there are plenty of other carbon steel pans that don't come with that level of uncertainty.
Cites safety (against)
The handle is all metal and that's a good thing. Some of them had other things on the handle. You you wanna be able to use this in the oven or on the stove top, and we like that this one has an all-metal handle. It's not super comfortable, but it's not bad. Some of the hands we tested had very awkward balance when you…
Cites ergonomics (against), handle, oven safe
Matfer is appealing the decision and says the test conditions don't reflect real-world cooking. They also point out that their pans meet all EU and French safety standards and are safe when used as instructed.